How to Apply Eye Make-Up: The most common ‘faults’ & how to get around them, including advice on eye make-up techniques, colors & products.
Few people have perfectly set and spaced eyes where the lid is completely visible from inner to outer corner. Anyone who does is lucky indeed; their eye make-up always looks good. Most need to modify their eye make-up to make corrections.
Fashion plays an enormous role in determining the the type and color of eye make-up women select, and how they choose to wear it. But choosing the wrong eye make-up — or wearing it to a disadvantage — suppresses the natural eye color and emphasizes ‘faults’, thus deadening the overall facial expression.
The Seven Most Common ‘Faults’ and How to Get Around Them with Eye Make-Up
Protruding Eyes: To achieve balance, convex areas need to be darkened and those that are less convex lightened.
Shade the upper lid with a matte shadow using a dark(er) color from the outer corner one third of the way towards the center. The lower lid also has to be darkened.
Glossy eyeshadows make dry skin appear crinkly and enhance wrinkles. Better is to stick with matte or satin colors.
Deep Set Eyes: Apply foundation or concealer one or two nuances lighter than than complexion to the entire eye area. This opens the eye, giving an impression of ‘flatness’.
Use a light eyeshadow for the upper lid, shade darkly above the lid crease, and apply mascara generously.
Small Eyes: Shade the lid in soft pastel tones and the lid crease in a darker one. Use eyeliner below and above the eye, but don’t let the lines meet at the outer corner. Use a white or very light eyeliner on the inner lower lid. Depending on the look to be achieved, eyeliner on the lower outer lid can be omitted.
Overly Large Eyes: Darken the lid with eyeshadow. Line the eyes below and above, and be sure the lines meet at the outer corner. Dark liner should also be used on the inner lids, especially the lower ones.
Eyes Set Too Close Together: Use lighter colors from the inner eye corner, and darker ones towards the outer corner; dark colors draw emphasis.
How do I know how well spaced my eyes are? If the width of one eye fits exactly between both eyes, the eyes are perfectly spaced.
Too Widely Spaced Eyes: Use darker colors from the inner eye corner, and lighter ones towards the outer corner. This is a rare ‘fault’.
Hooded Eyes: This is where excess skin hangs over the upper lid.
Accentuate the upper lid with a dark color, swerving the color upwardly at the outer corner, rather like ‘cat’s eyes’. Place highlights below the brow bone and beside the inner eye corner for a lifting effect. Mascara should be used more generously towards the inner corner.
When using eyeliner, begin at the center of the eye, above the pupil, and work towards the outer corner, making the line heavier, or thicker, on the way.
Different shades are used to sculpt and correct the eye form. To achieve a soft transition between colors, apply dark before light.
Color Selection
These are the standard rules applied to the eye maquillage:
For brown eyes use eye-make-up in brown, mahogany or anthracite
For blue eyes use blue eye make-up
For green or hazel eyes use yellow based Brown and Khaki eye make-up
For gray eyes use black and anthracite eye make-up
Although not to be ignored, rigidly sticking to these rules would be somewhat tedious, which is why the fashion world has bent them and explored other possibilities, giving a vast array of shades to choose from. Orange or purple tones are great for green eyes, for example, and brown tones have an amazing effect on blue eyes.
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